The Homestead features limestone sport climbing in a remote, serene, desert setting. There are presently over 250 single pitch routes ranging in difficulty from 5.7 to 5.13b. A 70 meter rope and 16-20 quickdraws are recommended. The canyon consists of multiple walls, each with its own style and sun aspect. Tufa City, Rough Rider Wall, and North Buttress are perhaps the most glorious walls.
Arizona's OTHER limestone sport canyon sits on the southern slopes of the Mescal Mountains north of Winkleman and the Gila River. Mostly routes for the hardman, but has some good 10s and below. Routes can get as long as 100 feet, gobbling up to 16 quickdraws! The limestone here isn't like its cousin stone at Jacks Canyon; it is 100% killer limestone, not very pocketed.
Excellent climbing with a massive amount of new route potential, just close the gates behind you!!! You will pass through state trust land, the camping & climbing is on BLM land. Click the button below for an excellent foldout guide of the area.
The shortest distance from the Valley is via Hwy 60 from Superior to Globe, then south on Hwy 77 (44 miles east of Superior). From Superior head to Winkleman where you turn north on Hwy 77 for approx. 15 miles (47 miles). As you drive north on 77 the road goes from two lanes only to a road with a passing lane. Once this ends the road contours downhill. Slow down and make a right turn where the 2nd guardrail begins onto a rough dirt road. (Just N. of mile marker 153, and S. of Dripping Spgs Rd.) Drop down to the first gate and follow this road for 2.75 miles to it's end. This dirt road can be very rough, but I've seen 2WD vehicles make it (if you make it up the first big hill, the rest is cake). Please remember to close all three gates behind you!!! Camping is just west of the trailhead near a flat spot/old corral @ 1/2 mile. Drive to the end of the road for the trailhead to a small parking area. From parking proceed straight south from large cairn down trail and across first small wash. Continue trending uphill on a cairned trail that is thin in spots, take your time, you are going to work uphill along the top of the west side of the canyon to reach Finland at the furthest point. For the "creek" approach, stay straight on this trail for about 1/4mi. until it drops down into canyon bottom. Go left (upstream) about 1/4mi. in easy creek bed to first sizable wall on left which is "Welcome Wall". Latitude, Longitude: 33.14883, -110.79960 While the road was seriously improved by the Access Fund in March of 2016, a 4WD vehicle with high clearance is still recommended. To illustrate this point, a Honda CRV became stuck within hours of the road upgrades. If you lack an off-road vehicle make an immediate left to park. Please ensure that you are not blocking the road or access to ranch equipment. From here hike up the road (30-40 mins) to the upper Access Fund camping area. If you are fortunate enough to have an off-road capable vehicle, continue down the road. The drive will ease after the first uphill crux section. Please drive in a lower gear, avoid spinning your tires, and maintain a reasonable speed to keep the road in good condition for everyone. Park at the upper Access Fund camping area. From the Homestead kiosk, hike the .4 mile trail to the other side of the dirt road. Walk the road to the beginning of the trail that will take you to the crags. At the fork turn left/uphill to reach Finland Terrace, Tufa City, and Marley Wall. Continue straight/downhill to reach the other walls. Slate Nation and Mouse Wall are accessed from either trail. Please don't drive past the Access Fund campground through the other gates as this is private property. Close all gates. Do not jeopardize future access. Also this is a pack it in, pack it out experience. Please make sure you take care of your garbage. Information provided by: Mountainproject.com
The Homestead Rock Climbing Routes
Special thanks to Mountain Project for supplying the following information on available climbing routes. Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
For more adventure opportuntites throughout Gila County visit www.discovergilacounty.com/outdoor-adventure